A Paint Brush For All Seasons

A Blog by Helen Grant

When you are starting out with model making, you may not think your choice of paint brush is a big deal. On the contrary, it is a huge big deal! It can make or break your masterpiece. So, it’s a good thing you asked me first.

My first paint brush came in a set of 12 square coloured tablets in a flat tin box with a colouring book. The hair was soft on my skin. At five years of age, my only achievement was staying within the lines. My magical brush did all that and I was happy and hooked on painting from then on.

Stamped in gold lettering along its red lacquered handle were the words “Pony Hair #1” My imagination drifted to a field full of content, grass-munching ponies being willingly shaved for their contribution to my art. I also imagined such a willingness when I bought my first Sable paint brush. Silly me.

Now, some 40 years later, my paint brush collection has grown quite a bit. I have a brush for all purposes. From common-as-dirt bristle, right up to the holy of holies, red Sable.

So let’s get started in sorting out what is right for you.

For starters, brushes come in all shapes and sizes for all kinds of professions, for example, flat, round, wedge, chisel, and fine point, but I will concentrate on hobby-size brushes. These can be as fine as 00000 up to 12. Depending on the size of your model, Generally, sizes 000 to 4 seem to be the most common for 1/72 scale model aircraft. They also come in a variety of bristles, from natural hair to synthetic.

The hair clump is called the “reservoir” and size 00000 holds less paint in its reservoir than size 12. So, redipping your brush in paint occurs more with a finer brush.

Your budget may dictate the quality of the brush you buy. For instance, ponies, goats, and bristles are the cheapest. For some reason, these are referred to as Camel brushes. Contrary to what one might think Camel Hair brushes do not in fact contain hair from camels. Camel is a term used for brushes made from squirrel, goat, ox, pony or a blend of these hairs.

However, these don’t come to a fine point, so painting details cannot be achieved easily. Here are two examples of a # 4 pure Sable and a # 4 Pony hair for the same size brush.



Pig bristle is very stiff and can leave ugly brush lines in your paint. I have discovered that the cheaper the brush the less reliable it is. They can drop hair on your model or the metal “ferrule” can detach from the handle. Very annoying.

A step up from these brushes is synthetic or imitation hair. Made in either nylon, polyester, or a mix of the two, it is manufactured to come to a tapered point so you can achieve fine lines. These are best suited for acrylic paints as some harsh solvents may affect the polymer and cause your brush to “fluff” out of shape.



I have discovered over time that synthetic brushes lose their fine point, but that doesn’t mean they become useless, they just step back from being a fine brush. But it’s nice to know that no cute furry animals were harmed in the manufacture of synthetic brushes.

OK, now we get to the Holy Grail of paint brushes, Sable.

These are manufactured from cute furry animals. The price can start from $10.00 for a 000 up to $50.00 or more for a size 10. Yes, I have paid $75.00 for a size 12 paint brush. The quality was outstanding. The results were remarkable, you get what you pay for.

Sable comes from an animal of that name; a cute, tiny, furry animal from the weasel family. Sable are harvested for their naturally tapered fur. Today it sounds barbaric that they are still being harvested just for paint brushes, but it may come to a point where this no longer happens. After reading forums, some artists are making a conscious effort to switch to synthetic. Even so, I have to admit, Sable brushes are the best and I can paint a line as fine as a pin.

It’s your choice. Expensive paint brushes are better paint brushes. It’s that simple and if cared for properly, they can last decades compared to just a few months or years for a cheaper brush. Buy quality and learn how to clean and care for your brush. I bought a # 6 Sable brush in 1982 and still have it.

Always wash your brushes after use. Always use the correct solvent for your paint. Roll your brushes through a paper towel to pull out unused pigment and solvent. Never let pigment build up at the base of the hair.

So to end my blog, how do I look after my brushes?



I seldom use acrylics, but when I do, I revamp my brushes in a mixture of warm soapy water or fabric softener, even rubbing alcohol. My choice of paint is enamel and lacquer so I wash my brushes out in the appropriate thinner. OK, this is a harsh chemical that can affect hair, what then?

If a Sable needs extra care before being put away, I dip it in mineral oil “baby oil” This prevents the hair from becoming dry and brittle. I have been guilty of neglecting a Sable and it ended up looking like a shaggy dog. To repair it, I gently swirled it in boiled water for 2-5 seconds and it re-shaped. The transformation was remarkable.



Well, fellow modelers, I hope I have helped you in sorting out what is right for you. Drop me a line on Facebook - ask an expert, if I haven’t answered your particular question.